tic and numerous outside of Italy as within the
boundaries of that blessed country. The most popular seasoning for
spaghetti, are tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. The
description of these three condiments follows:

12

TOMATO SAUCE

(Salsa di Pomidoro)

Chop together, fine, one quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, a piece
of celery as long as your finger, a few bay leaves and just enough
parsley. Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, cut up seven or
eight tomatoes and put everything over the fire together. Stir it from
time to time and when you see the juice condensing into a thin custard
strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use.

When fresh tomatoes are not available the tomato paste may be used. This
is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices which is to be
had, at all Italian grocers', now so numerous in all American cities.
Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes.
Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes
as they are too sweet in flavor. Of course canned tomatoes seasoned with
salt and a bit of bay leaf, can always be used instead of fresh
tomatoes.

This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled meat; excellent to
dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned with
butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned in the same way (see
Risotto). Mushrooms are a fine addition to it.

When using concentrated paste the following recipes will be found to
give good results:

Chop one onion, one carrot and a celery stalk: form a little bunch of
parsley and other aromatic greens and put everything to brown in a
saucepan together with a piece of butter. Add a reasonable portion of
tomato paste while cooking, stir and keep on a low fire until the sauce
assumes the necessary consistency.

13

BROWN STOCK

(Sugo di Carne)

Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of beef taken from a
juicy cut and small pieces of salt pork. Place over a large onion, one
carrot, and a stalk of celery, all chopped in small pieces. Add some
butter and cover the whole with any trimmings from steaks or roasts and
any bit of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and cloves. Put over
the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown,
turn the meat and when everything is quite brown add a cup of water,
renewing the latter three times. Finally add a certain quantity of
boiling water