and through the foliage we
first saw the water glancing and shining in its descent. The effect
was perfect. After some little further and more difficult progress,
we stood beneath the fall, of about 150 feet sheer descent. The wind
whirled in eddies, and carried the sleet over us, chilling our bodies,
but unable to damp our admiration. The basin of the fall is part of a
circle, with the outlet forming a funnel; bare cliffs, perpendicular on
all sides, form the upper portion of the vale, and above and below is
all the luxuriant vegetation of the East; trees, arched and interlaced,
and throwing down long fantastic roots and creepers, shade the scene,
and form one of the richest sylvan prospects I have ever beheld. The
water, foaming and flashing, and then escaping amid huge gray stones
on its troubled course--clear and transparent, expanding into tranquil
pools, with the flickering sunshine through the dense foliage--all
combine to form at scene such as Tasso has described. [10]

"Inferior in body of water to many falls in Switzerland, it is superior
to any in sylvan beauty; its deep seclusion, its undisturbed solitude,
and the difficulty of access, combine to heighten its charms to
the imagination. Our descent was like our upward progress. Having
again dressed ourselves, we rested for a time, and then started
for Bonthian--wearing away the rest of the day shooting amid the
hills. Theylingen and myself procured many specimens, and returned
laden with our spoil, and charmed with our day's excursion. The
waterfall is called Sapo, from the neighboring green peak of that
name. The height of our resting-place (not the highest point of the
day's ascent) was 750.5 feet, by Newman's two barometers; yet this is
the bottom of the mountain on its western slope. The officers dined
with us; they are very polite and kind; and we retired early to rest,
all the better for our excursion.

"_19th._--At 6 A.M. went with the Dutch officers shooting, and reached
the same stream which forms the waterfall. The scenery delightful;
water cool, and pleasant for bathing, a luxury I enjoyed in high
perfection. Aboard again to a late breakfast."

CHAPTER VI.

Dain Matara, the Bugis,--Excursions in Celebes.--Dispute
with the Rajah's son-in-law.--Baboon shot.--Appearance of the
country.--Visit the Resident.--Barometrical observations.--The
Bugis.--Geography.--Coral reefs.--Visit the Rana of
Lamatte.--Population and pro