ing, or if not well decayed wait until after
planting to apply the manure. Future cultivations will mix the dressing
with the surface soil where the roots will be able to reach it, since
raspberry plants are close surface feeders, and for this reason all
cultivations should be shallow after the root system has formed.

When the matted row system of planting is adopted, the late Prof. Green
advised using a heavy mulch for two feet on each side of the rows to
preserve moisture and discourage weed growth close to the plants,
cultivating only a strip through the middle.

Raspberries may be planted in rows five or six feet apart to allow
cultivation both ways, or in rows seven feet apart with plants two or
three feet apart in the rows with the idea of allowing a matted row and
cultivating but one way after the first season.

The matted row is hardly to be recommended unless one is willing to use
a hoe rather freely to keep the plants free from weeds where the
cultivator can not reach them, or unless he can provide a good, deep
mulch to discourage weed growth.

Rows should preferably run north and south, so the fruit will be shaded
during the middle of the day, but this is not absolutely necessary.

In setting the plants place them just a little deeper than they grew
originally, carry them to the field in pails of water or thin mud,
avoiding exposure of the roots to the air unprotected, but do not use
water in the holes unless the ground is extremely dry. Firm the ground
well close to the plant, and cultivate between rows all summer to
preserve moisture, whether weeds are troublesome or not, up to September
1st and be sure to cultivate shallow after the roots begin to occupy the
ground.

Hills that grow exceedingly tall and rank may be cut back to about two
and a half feet in height in the spring, or if one is willing to take
the trouble to pinch off the end of the plants at this height during the
growing season they will get bushy plants better able to hold up a load
of fruit--besides cutting back has a tendency to produce larger fruit.

We only grow two varieties of red raspberries, both of which are
perfectly hardy without winter covering, so we have no suggestions to
make or experiences to relate regarding winter protection. I am afraid I
would be tempted to quit the business if I had to cover our raspberry
bushes for winter protection. I think it would be as big a task as all
the rest of the work combined except p