wildest
and grandest description,--lofty peaks massed together and laden around
their bases with ice and snow; chains of glacier lakes; cascading
streams in endless variety, with glorious views, westward over a sea of
rocks and woods, and eastward over strange ashy plains, volcanoes, and
the dry, dead-looking ranges of the Great Basin. Every pass, however,
possesses treasures of beauty all its own.
Having thus in a general way indicated the height, leading features, and
distribution of the principal passes, I will now endeavor to describe
the Mono Pass in particular, which may, I think, be regarded as a fair
example of the higher alpine passes in general.
The main portion of the Mono Pass is formed by Bloody Canon, which
begins at the summit of the range, and runs in a general
east-northeasterly direction to the edge of the Mono Plain.
The first white men who forced a way through its somber depths were, as
we have seen, eager gold-seekers. But the canon was known and traveled
as a pass by the Indians and mountain animals long before its discovery
by white men, as is shown by the numerous tributary trails which come
into it from every direction. Its name accords well with the character
of the "early times" in California, and may perhaps have been suggested
by the predominant color of the metamorphic slates in which it is in
great part eroded; or more probably by blood-stains made by the
unfortunate animals which were compelled to slip and shuffle awkwardly
over its rough, cutting rocks. I have never known an animal, either mule
or horse, to make its way through the canon, either in going up or down,
without losing more or less blood from wounds on the legs. Occasionally
one is killed outright--falling headlong and rolling over precipices
like a boulder. But such accidents are rarer than from the terrible
appearance of the trail one would be led to expect; the more experienced
when driven loose find their way over the dangerous places with a
caution and sagacity that is truly wonderful. During the gold excitement
it was at times a matter of considerable pecuniary importance to force a
way through the canon with pack-trains early in the spring while it was
yet heavily blocked with snow; and then the mules with their loads had
sometimes to be let down over the steepest drifts and avalanche beds by
means of ropes.
A good bridle-path leads from Yosemite through many a grove and meadow
up to the head of the canon, a di
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