for which
the demand is heaviest and always certain, and the eel-soup man's day
begins early and ends late, on Saturdays lasting well into Sunday
morning. He is prosperous as such business goes, and buys four
"draughts" of eels on a Friday for the Saturday's work, a "draught"
being twenty pounds, while now and then he has been known to get rid of
a hundred pounds.

This stall, to which the newsboys flock as being more "stylish" than
most of its kind, is fitted with a cast-iron fireplace holding two large
kettles of four or five gallon capacity. A dozen pint bowls, or basins
as the Englishman prefers to call them, and an equal number of half-pint
cups, with spoons for all, constitute the outfit; and even for the
poorest establishment of the sort, a capital of not less than a pound is
required. This stall has four lamps with "Hot Eels" painted on them, and
one side of it is given to whelks, which are boiled at home and always
eaten cold with abundance of vinegar, of which the newsboy is prodigal.
At times fried fish are added to the stock, but eels lead, and mean the
largest profit on the amount invested.

Dutch eels are preferred, and the large buyer likes to go directly to
the eel boats at the Billingsgate Wharf and buy the squirming draughts,
fresh from the tanks in which they have been brought. To dress and
prepare a draught takes about three hours, and the daughter of the
stall-owner stands at one side engaged in this operation, cleaning,
washing, and cutting up the eels into small pieces from half an inch to
an inch long. These are boiled, the liquor being made smooth and thick
with flour, and flavored with chopped parsley and mixed spices,
principally allspice. For half a penny, from five to seven pieces may be
had, the cup being then filled up with the liquor, to which the buyer is
allowed to add vinegar at discretion. There is a tradition of one
customer so partial to hot eels that he used to come twice a day and
take eight cupfuls a day, four at noon and four as a night-cap.

The hot-eel season ends with early autumn, and pea soup takes its place,
though a small proportion of eels is always to be had. Split peas,
celery, and beef bones are needed for this, and it is here that the
cat's-meat man is supposed to be an active partner. In any case the
smell is savory, and the hot steam a constant invitation to the
shivering passers-by. This man has no cry of "Hot Eels!" like many of
the sellers.

"I touches up p