In our climate, the state of the weather on public occasions is
always regarded with anxiety; for enthusiasm, however warm, is apt to
expire beneath a deluge of northern rain. On the previous evening the
sky promised well. A brilliant sunset and a warm wind seemed security
for a placid morrow; and although the glare of the great furnaces in the
neighbourhood of Glasgow glowed somewhat ominously large as the night
wore on, we retired to rest rather in hope than resignation. But dismal,
indeed, was the prospect when we awoke. A vaporous grey mist had
entirely usurped the heavens, and the plash of weary rain resounded
through the pluvious metropolis of the west. Fortunately, we were not
ignorant of the fact, that Glasgow is under the peculiar tutelage of the
Pleiades; and accordingly we proceeded to the railway, trusting that
matters might mend so soon as we lost sight of the stupendous
chimney-stalk of St Rollox. Notwithstanding the inclemency of the
weather, and the early hour, every town, as we passed along, seemed in a
state of the greatest excitement. There were bands of music, deputations
of mason lodges, and the rival brotherhood of Odd Fellows, with hundreds
of men and women, all clad in holiday attire, awaiting the arrival of
the train at every station. It is a marvel to us, how half of these
expectants could have found their way to Ayr. Carriage after carriage
was linked to the already exorbitant train, until the engine groaned
audibly, and almost refused to proceed. Still the rain continued to
fall, and it was not until after we had left Irvine, and were rounding
the margin of the bay towards Ayr, that the sky brightened up and
disclosed the great panorama of the sea, with Ailsa and Arran looming in
the distance, and steamers from every direction ploughing their way into
the port. The streets of Ayr were swarming with people, and sounding
with the crash of music. There were arches on the bridge, flags
streaming from windows, and bells tolling from the steeples--symptoms of
a jubilee as great as if Royalty had descended unawares, and the whole
district had arisen to pay honour to its Queen. The inns were thronged
to excess, and the waiters in absolute despair. What a multitude of
salmon must have died to furnish that morning's meal! Yet every face
looked bright and happy, as became those who had engaged in such a
pilgrimage. Then the burst of music became louder and more frequent, as
band after band, preceding the