tive and
very odd: the first half of the stanza was quick and merry, the second
half became a wailing dirge." A full translation of a long and very
interesting and pathetic _novena_ is given by Signora Caico.[39]{63}

The _presepio_ both in Rome and at Naples is the special Christmas symbol
in the home, just as the lighted tree is in Germany. In Rome the Piazza
Navona is the great place for the sale of little clay figures of the holy
persons. (Is there perchance a survival here of the _sigillaria_, the
little clay dolls sold in Rome at the _Saturnalia_?) These are bought in
the market for two _soldi_ each, and the _presepi_ or "Bethlehems" are
made at home with cardboard and moss.{64} The home-made _presepi_ at
Naples are well described by Matilde Serao; they are pasteboard models of
the landscape of Bethlehem--a hill with the sacred cave beneath it and
two or three paths leading down to the grotto, a little tavern, a
shepherd's hut, a few trees, sometimes a stream in glittering glass. The
ground is made verdant with moss, and there is |114| straw within the
cave for the repose of the infant Jesus; singing angels are suspended by
thin wires, and the star of the Wise Men hangs by an invisible thread.
There is little attempt to realize the scenery of the East; the Child is
born and the Magi adore Him in a Campanian or Calabrian setting.{66}

Italian churches, as well as Italian homes, have their _presepi_.
"Thither come the people, bearing humble gifts of chestnuts, apples,
tomatoes, and the like, which they place as offerings in the hands of the
figures. These are very often life-size. Mary is usually robed in blue
satin, with crimson scarf and white head-dress. Joseph stands near her
dressed in the ordinary working-garb. The onlookers are got up like
Italian contadini. The Magi are always very prominent in their grand
clothes, with satin trains borne by black slaves, jewelled turbans, and
satin tunics all over jewels."{67}

[Illustration:

ST. FRANCIS INSTITUTES THE "PRESEPIO" AT GRECCIO.

_By Giotto._

(Upper Church of St Francis, Assissi)]

[Illustration: THE "BAMBINO" OF ARA COELI.]

In Rome the two great centres of Christmas devotion are the churches of
Santa Maria Maggiore, where are preserved the relics of the cradle of
Christ, and Ara Coeli, the home of the most famous _Bambino_ in the
world. A vivid picture of the scene at Santa Maria Maggiore in the early
nineteenth century is given by Lady Morgan. She