h alcohol applied to the pad. If too much alcohol is
used it will cut through the shellac and remove what has already been
rubbed on. If at any time too much shellac is used it will pile up and
form rings. Too much rotten stone will cut down the polish and by
absorbing the mixture will leave the pad dry. If too much oil is used
the polish will become dull after a day or two.

After the first coat has hardened apply the second, but use less shellac
and more alcohol and just enough oil to prevent the pad from sticking.
This may be done by dipping the tip of a finger in the oil and spreading
it over the pad. The entire mixture should be so that only a dampness
can be felt on the pad. As the process goes on less oil and shellac are
used. All oil must be removed when applying the last coat, or the piece
will lose its polish. All the pores should be filled, and no rings
should be on the finished work. Where a natural finish is desired, apply
a coat of boiled linseed oil twelve hours before the work is to be
polished. This will bring out the grain and will also aid in applying
the first coat; no oil need then be used in the first coat.

A great amount of practice and patience is required to get a first class
polish. Polishing can only be learned by experience. Correct your
troubles in properly proportioning the mixture. Never use too much
shellac as it will build up too fast and will not harden, thus causing
rings; or it will pull and catch to the pad, thus forming bunches. The
purpose of alcohol is mainly to dilute the shellac and to prevent
against putting it on the work too fast, but care must be taken not to
use too much alcohol to cut the shellac entirely. The oil helps to
distribute the shellac evenly, but it must be removed when finishing the
last coat, or the polish will not remain. It also helps to keep the pad
from sticking to the work.

It is impossible to obtain a polish that will be as lasting and rich by
any method other than the one described. For success it is essential to
learn the proportions of the mixture and to acquire skill in applying
the materials by using exactly the right pressure and the right movement
of the pad.

CHAPTER IX

FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING

Face-plate and chuck turning open an entirely new field of work from
that taken up in previous chapters of this book. If handled correctly,
it has much greater educational and practical value than cylinder
turning. From the practical