with a fine prosperous Presbyterian town
all about them. And I'll drive you to Tullymore, where you'll see the
most beautiful park, and the finest views from it all the way to the
Isle of Man, that are to be seen in all Ireland." He was very much
interested in the curious story of the sequestration of the remains of
Mr. Stewart of New York, who was born, he tells me, at Lisburn, where
the wildest fabrications on the subject seem to have got currency. That
this feat of body-snatching is supposed to have been performed by a
little syndicate of Italians, afterwards broken up by the firmness of
Lady Crawford in resisting the ghastly pressure to which the widow and
the executors of Mr. Stewart are believed to have succumbed, was quite a
new idea to him.

From Moira to Belfast the scenery along the line grows in beauty
steadily. If Belfast were not the busiest and most thriving city in
Ireland, it would still be well worth a visit for the picturesque charms
of its situation and of the scenery which surrounds it. At some future
day I hope to get a better notion both of its activity and of its
attractions than it would be possible for me to attempt to get in this
flying visit, made solely to take the touch of the atmosphere of the
place at this season of the year; for we are on the very eve of the
battle month of the Boyne.

Mr. Cameron, the Town Inspector of the Royal Irish Constabulary, met me
at the station, in accordance with a promise which he kindly made when I
saw him several weeks ago at Cork; and this morning he took me all over
the city. It is very well laid out, in the new quarters especially, with
broad avenues and spacious squares. In fact, as a local wag said to me
to-day at the Ulster Club, "You can drive through Belfast without once
going into a street"--most of the thoroughfares which are not called
"avenues" or "places" being known as "roads." It is, of course, an
essentially modern city. When Boate made his survey of Ireland two
centuries ago, Belfast was so small a place that he took small note of
it, though it had been incorporated by James I. in 1613 in favour of the
Chichester family, still represented here. In a very careful _Tour in
Ireland_, published at Dublin in 1780, the author says of Belfast, "I
could not help remarking the great number of Scots who reside in this
place, and who carry on a good trade with Scotland." It seems then to
have had a population of less than 20,000 souls, as it only touc