o
years before, when it was even hotter; and he came over with
out-stretched hand,--calling me uncomplimentary names, under his
breath, for spoiling the effect of his explanation; all which was
belied by his welcome. It takes an Irishman to run a big hotel in the
middle of the desert.

A few inquiries brought out the information that I was not likely to
get a boat. The stores did not keep them. I should have given my order
two weeks before to an Indian who built boats to order at $2.00 a
foot. This was a new one on me. Suppose a fellow wanted--well say,
about $15.00 worth. It would look something like a tub, wouldn't it?
Perhaps it was to be the coast, for me, after all.

The Colorado River in flood is a terrible stream. Unlike the Eastern
rivers, there are no populous cities--with apologies to Needles and
Yuma--along its shores, to be inundated with the floods. Unlike the
rivers of the South, few great agricultural districts spread across
its bottoms. Along the upper seven hundred miles there are not a
half-dozen ranches with twenty-five acres under cultivation. But if
destructive power and untamed energy are terrible, the Colorado River,
in flood, is a terrible stream.

After changing into some comfortable clothes I sauntered past the
railway machine shops down to the river, and up to where a fight was
being waged to save the upper part of the town from being torn away by
the flood. For a month past, car after car of rock had been dumped
along the river bank, only to disappear in the quicksands; and as yet
no bottom had been reached. Up to this point the fight was about
equal. The flood would not reach its crest until two or three weeks
later.

Beyond a fisherman or two there were few men by the river. The workmen
had finished their day's labour. A ferryman said that I might talk an
Indian into selling his boat, but it was doubtful. My next job was to
find such an Indian.

A big, greasy Mojave buck lay on an uncovered, rusty bed spring, slung
on a home-made frame, before his willow and adobe home, close to the
Colorado River. In answer to my repeated question he uncoiled and
stretched the full length of his six foot six couch, grunted a few
words in his native tongue to other Indians without a glance in my
direction, then indifferently closed his eyes again. A young Indian in
semi-cowboy garb,--not omitting a gorgeous silk handkerchief about his
neck,--jabbered awhile with some grinning squaws, then said in
pe