mance under difficulties.--
Mayence.--Frankfort.--Heidelberg.--The ruined
castle.--Baden-Baden.--A glimpse at the gambling.--The
new and the old "Schloss."--The Black Forest.--
Strasbourg.--The mountains. 147

CHAPTER XIII.

DAYS IN SWITZERLAND.

The Lake of Lucerne.--Days of rest in the city.--An
excursion up the Righi.--The crowd at the summit.--
Dinner at midnight.--Rising before "the early
worm."--The "sun-rise" according to Murray.--Animated
scarecrows.--Off for a tour through Switzerland.--The
lake for the last time.--Gruetlii.--William Tell's
chapel.--Fluellen.--Altorf.--Swiss haymakers.--An hour
at Amsteg.--The rocks close in.--The Devil's Bridge.--
The dangerous road.--"A carriage has gone over the
precipice!"--Andermatt.--Desolate rocks.--Exquisite
wild flowers.--The summit of the Furka.--A descent to
the Rhone glacier.--Into the ice.--Swiss villages.--
Brieg.--The convent inn.--The bare little chapel on the
hill.--To Martigny. 168

CHAPTER XIV.

AMONG THE EVERLASTING HILLS.

The quaint inn.--The Falls of the Sallenches, and the
Gorge de Trient.--Shopping in a Swiss village.--A
mule ride to Chamouni.--Peculiarities of the
animals.--Entrance to the village.--Egyptian mummies
lifted from the mules.--Rainy days.--Chamois.--The
Mer de Glace.--"Look out of your window."--Mont
Blanc.--Sallenches.--A diligence ride to Geneva.--Our
little old woman.--The clownish peasant.--The fork in
the road.--"Adieu." 189

CHAPTER XV.

LAST DAYS IN SWITZERLAND.

Geneva.--Calvin and jewelry.--Up Lake Leman.--Ouchy and
Lausanne.--"Sweet Clarens."--Chillon.--Freyburg.--
Sight-seers.--The Last Judgment.--Berne and its
bears.--The town like a story.--The Lake of Thun.--
Interlaken.--Over the Wengern Alp.--The Falls of
Giessbach.--The Brunig Pass.--Lucerne again. 201

CHAPTER XVI.

BACK TO PARIS ALONE.

Comi