s ordered, but to the
moment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing there are a dozen people to
sip soup and eat fish first, you may allow them ten or fifteen minutes
for the former, and about as long for the latter, more or less,
according to the temptations the "BON GOUT" of these preceding courses
has to attract their attention.

When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan back, and
stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and bright for the
browning; when the steam from the meat draws towards the fire,[78-*] it
is a sign of its being done enough; but you will be the best judge of
that, from the time it has been down, the strength of the fire you have
used, and the distance your spit has been from it.

Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy (_see Receipt_,
No. 326); and just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire to
brown it. If you wish to froth it, baste it, and dredge it with flour
carefully: you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light.
The common fault seems to be using too much flour. The meat should have
a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of being covered with
a paste. Those who are particular about the froth use butter instead of
drippings; (see receipt to roast a turkey, No. 57)--

"And send up what you roast with relish-giving froth,"

says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appearance to the eye, that
the palate may be prepossessed in its favour at first sight; therefore,
have the whole course dished, before roasts are taken from the fire.

A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and colour of
her roasts, as a court beauty is to her complexion at a birthday ball.
If your meat does not brown so much, or so evenly as you wish, take two
ounces of Glaze, _i. e._ portable soup, put four table-spoonfuls of
water, and let it warm and dissolve gradually by the side of the fire.
This will be done in about a quarter of an hour; put it on the meat
equally all over with a paste-brush the last thing before it goes to
table.

Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally considered
one of the most easy and simple processes of cookery, it requires more
unremitting attention to perform it perfectly well than it does to make
most made-dishes.

That made-dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves to be
reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roasting and boiling
it is not eas