cle
have fixed it all up. Hip, hooray! Won't it be jolly to be on land
again?"

But it proved slow work making their way in, for the river's mouth,
which broadens into a noble harbor, was choked with the shipping of
many lands, which had doubtless been detained by the fog of last night.
As the young people leaned over the guard rail, it was great fun to
watch the crowd of clumsy little native boats, laden with fruit and
wine, which were hovering about the steamer, and getting in the way of
everybody, while crying their wares. Many of these boatmen seemed as
dark in complexion as any East Indian on board, and nearly all wore
ear-rings, generally of silver, in the dingy lobes of their ears. They
seemed noisy and quarrelsome, and often shrieked what seemed like
terrible imprecations at each other, shaking their fists and scowling
darkly, only to be laughing carelessly the next minute, as if nothing
mattered. Dwight was about motioning one man to fling him up a bunch
of figs, in exchange for the silver coin in his fingers, when his uncle
called them to the other side of the deck, which was just as well, for
it would have had to be a splendid toss and catch had he secured them.

Mr. Lawrence wanted to point out the difference between a clumsy coast
lugger just putting out to sea, and a clean little clipper-built
English yacht coming in. He said,

"It is a difference that you will see in almost everything here. The
Portuguese do not know the meaning of the word thrift, as we understand
it, and if cleanliness is not next to godliness with them, it certainly
is next to royalty, for it never descends to the common people."

When, at last, they went on shore and left the wharves behind, most of
the bustle died away, and they could see that Mr. Lawrence had only
told the truth, in the easy way in which all business seemed to be
managed.

But they found much to admire and enjoy in the odd costumes and people
they were constantly meeting; more, as Hope rather contemptuously
remarked, than in the buildings, which were "just like houses anywhere."

She was right enough, for this is largely true on the seaward side of
Lisbon. Her quaintness, and squalor also, lie further inland, where
the old quarters are to be found.

"So you don't think Lisbon has many novelties, Miss Hosmer?" laughed
Mr. Lawrence, who thought there was more fun in the young people than
in scenes that were not new to him. "Just wait a bit! We are co