s a pleasure to endorse Mrs. Smith's book, and at the same time to
pay a tribute of admiration to the women of the Service, both employees
and wives of employees, who carry on faithfully and courageously under
all circumstances.

ARNO B. CAMMERER
_Associate Director,_
National Park Service

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. "_Out in Arizona, Where the Bad Men Are_" 1

II. "_This Ain't Washington!_" 11

III. "_I Do!_" 21

IV. _Celebrities and Squirrels_ 31

V. _Navajo Land_ 42

VI. "_They Killed Me_" 56

VII. _A Grand Canyon Christmas_ 67

VIII. _The Day's Work_ 77

IX. _The Doomed Tribe_ 89

X. _Where They Dance with Snakes_ 104

XI. _The Terrible Badger Fight_ 121

XII. _Grand Canyon Ups and Downs_ 131

XIII. _Sisters under the Skin_ 147

XIV. _The Passing Show_ 158

XV. _Fools, Flood, and Dynamite_ 170

[Illustration]

_Chapter I: "OUT IN ARIZONA, WHERE THE BAD MEN ARE"_

"So you think you'd like to work in the Park Office at Grand Canyon?"

"Sure!" "Where is Grand Canyon?" I asked as an afterthought.

I knew just that little about the most spectacular chasm in the world,
when I applied for an appointment there as a Government worker.

Our train pulled into the rustic station in the wee small hours, and
soon I had my first glimpse of the Canyon. Bathed in cold moonlight, the
depths were filled with shadows that disappeared as the sun came up
while I still lingered, spellbound, on the Rim.

On the long train journey I had read and re-read the _Grand Canyon
Information Booklet_, published by the National Park Service. I was
still unprepared for what lay before me in carrying out my role as field
clerk there. So very, very many pages of that booklet have