ar was clogged with lemon-juice. I then went to the
tombs of the Khalifah; one of the great ones had such arches and such
wondrous cupolas but all in ruins. There are scores of these noble
buildings, any one of which is a treasure, falling to decay. The next,
strange to say, was in perfect repair. I got off the donkey, and Omar
fidgeted and hesitated a little and consulted with a woman who had the
key. As there were no overshoes I pulled my boots off, and was rewarded
by seeing the footprints of Mohammed on two black stones, and a lovely
little mosque, a sort of _Sainte Chapelle_. Omar prayed with ardent
fervour and went out backwards, saluting the Prophet aloud. To my
surprise the woman was highly pleased with sixpence, and did not ask for
more. When I remarked this, Omar said that no Frank had ever been inside
to his knowledge. A mosque-keeper of the sterner sex would not have let
me in. I returned home through endless streets and squares of Moslem
tombs, those of the Memlooks among them. It was very striking; and it
was getting so dark that I thought of Nurreddin Bey, and wondered if a
Jinn would take me anywhere if I took up my night's lodging in one of the
comfortable little cupola-covered buildings.

My Coptic friend has just called in to say that his brother expects me at
Kenneh. I find nothing but civility and a desire to please. My boat is
the _Zint el Bachreyn_, and I carry the English flag and a small American
distinguishing pennant as a signal to my consular agents. We sail next
Wednesday. Good-bye for the present, dearest Mutter.

November 21, 1862: Sir Alexander Duff Gordon

_To Sir Alexander Duff Gordon_.

BOAT OFF EMBABEH,
_November_ 21, 1862.

DEAREST ALICK,

We embarked yesterday, and after the fashion of Eastern caravans are
abiding to-day at a village opposite Cairo; it is Friday, and therefore
would be improper and unlucky to set out on our journey. The scenes on
the river are wonderfully diverting and curious, so much life and
movement. But the boatmen are sophisticated; my crew have all sported
new white drawers in honour of the Sitti Ingleezee's supposed modesty--of
course compensation will be expected. Poor fellows! they are very well
mannered and quiet in their rags and misery, and their queer little
humming song is rather pretty, 'Eyah