nt column slowly changed its angle, until it rested for a
moment, like a halo, upon the severed head of St. John, in Caravaggio's
canvas, then suddenly disappeared. It seemed like an artificially
produced theatrical effect, cleverly managed, but the memory of the
singularly impressive experience is indelibly fixed upon the brain.

There are between thirty and forty churches in and about Valletta, none
of which merit special attention for their appointments. It would seem
as though there were more than the number named, since in wandering
about the town one is constantly coming upon a fresh one, whose
crumbling walls, however, are anything but "fresh." Two or three of
these churches were founded by Roger, when King of Sicily and Malta, and
were liberally endowed by him about the beginning of the eleventh
century. There is also a Jewish synagogue of modern construction, to
accommodate the followers of that faith, who, although not numerous, are
still represented by considerable numbers in the city. The architecture
of the churches is mostly of the Renaissance, presenting each a great
dome flanked by two heavy towers. Besides these churches, there are
several minor chapels within the fortifications. Particular interest
attaches to one of the latter, which for many years was hidden by the
debris of the fallen walls of St. Elmo. The episode which makes this
small chapel so specially worthy of mention forms one of the bright,
chivalric pages in the too often darkened career of the Knights of St.
John.

When the capture of this fort by the Turks, in the famous siege of 1565,
became at last inevitable, after months of stout defense and gallant
fighting, the few surviving Knights who so bravely held the position
against immensely superior numbers retired to this small chapel within
the fort, where they received the viaticum, solemnly embraced each
other, and then, although many of them were already grievously wounded,
went forth upon the ramparts to die. In the general defense of the
island it was all-important,--nay, imperative--that St. Elmo should hold
out as long as was possible. Every hour that it delayed the enemy was of
the greatest importance. Reinforcements from Italy were anxiously
expected, and the fleet which should bear them might heave in sight at
any moment. The walls of St. Elmo were already honeycombed by the shot
of the enemy, but the idea of surrendering to the Turks did not even
enter the minds of its brave