on
many of the girls. That night I slept twelve and a half hours, and
woke at nine thirty yesterday much refreshed. In the morning I helped
with the dish washing down in the canteen in the basement; such a
filthy place I don't wonder the "flu" spreads. I don't want to begin
to criticise so soon, but if I see much more of the conditions I saw
there I shall do my little bit to instigate a reform, at least where I
work.

In the afternoon I went with a nice Washington girl, Miss P. and a
great enormous Irish officer with a gentle smile and sweet voice, to
see a German submarine in the harbor. It was one of their largest
models which has surrendered. We were allowed on board and examined it
all. It gave me a strange feeling to be walking that deck and to read
the German signs everywhere, and to see those deadly guns, now become
the playthings of little boys who swarmed over the boat and up into
the gunners' seats.

New Year's Eve the Y.M.C.A. made use of all of us girls and gave a
dance, five of us furnishing the music, I alternately playing my
guitar and then using it as a drum, beating it on the back with my
ring. It made quite a hit. And really with two violins, ukulele and
piano we weren't a half bad orchestra. The "Y" men were immensely
grateful as they had searched the town unsuccessfully for a band. The
place was jammed with soldiers, American, Canadian and British, and
really it was a very jolly, nice affair. And now we are on the point
of departure for London.

Paris, January 12, 1919.

So much has happened since I wrote you from Liverpool and we have all
passed through so many moods that I wonder whether I can think back
and tell you everything. We left Liverpool for London a hundred
strong, the Y.M.C.A. having reserved enough first class coaches for us
all. We were a jolly party in our compartment. I played the guitar and
we all sang. We had afternoon tea served at stations and it was all
very much like peace times except that the train was not heated at all
and was excessively damp and cold, and in the compartments were
various signs ordering the public to keep the shades down after dark
and on no account to let any light show. The English landscape was
beautiful, soft and undulating, but _damp_ looking. That dampness gets
into your soul. The trees were brown, without leaves, yet the grass
in the fields was vivid green.

We arrived in London after dark, about eight p.