o knowing anything at that time, the
weather proposition was a gamble. Since the coming of the _Cleveland_
there could be detected among the "syndicate" a certain lack of
enthusiasm, as evidenced by a few chance remarks about the comforts of
home, and a less sprightly step and challenging eye. But, generally, on
nearing the destination, the crowd aboard ship were in good spirits,
though, naturally, somewhat more serious. It was now practically
perpetual daylight.

The first sight of Nome City, as we steamed toward the place in the
clear morning light of June 20, was impressive. It was indeed a "white
city," tents, tents, tents extending along the shore almost as far as
the eye could see. Scattered in the denser and more congested part of
the town were large frame and galvanized-iron structures, the warehouses
and stores of the large companies; and there was the much-talked-of
tundra, upon which the multitude were encamped, extending back almost
from the edge of the sea three or four miles to the high and rolling
hills, which bore an occasional streak of snow. Not a tree, not a bit of
foliage, nothing green, was in evidence. Had it not been for the chance
discovery of gold in that remote spot, one passing along the coast would
have considered it barren and forlorn, "a dreary waste expanding to the
skies." There is not even the semblance of a harbor. It is a mere
shallow roadstead open to the clear sweep and attack of the Bering Sea.
Anchored from one to two miles from the shore were strung along, I may
say, scores of nondescript steamers and sailing-craft, with here and
there a tug towing ashore lighters filled with passengers or freight, or
bringing them back empty. These tugs were so few that they could command
almost any price for a day's use, and proved veritable gold-mines to
their owners. When the sea is at all rough no disembarking can be done.
We were in great good luck to have at that time an unprecedented spell
of clear weather and calm seas, which tended to lessen the confusion and
misery, which were, even under those favorable conditions, only too
great.

Well, here we were finally and at last, and now to face the music!
Bundled into scows, passengers were towed by the light-draft boats to
within some thirty feet of the shore, and then the scows were allowed to
drift in upon the moderate but wetting surf. Women were carried ashore
on the backs of men who waded out to the lighters; and the men, for the
most