projecting bosom of the
flinty rock, or suspended from the clouds. When the elephants had
reached the summit, they looked like small ponies, and the men like
little dark specks in the sky. About two hundred yards from the top was
a strong gateway, and two large bastions, for the protection of this
pass into Holkar's provinces. Upon the hill was a strong stone-built
fort, belonging to that chieftain, which was well filled with guns and
men. This hill, from its base to its summit, is more than two miles.
There are several wells during the ascent, for the accommodation of
travellers, fed by springs hewn out of the solid rock. It is a good
day's march to complete the ascent of this hill; and how cattle get up,
with their enormous loads on their backs, is to the spectator wonderful
to behold. Nothing of moment occurred on the journey, save some broken
shins and knees; and, for three days after this trip, I was so stiff
that I could scarcely move. We encamped on the top of this hill, and the
view from its summit comprised an extent of at least fifty miles. The
people below seemed of another world. In the lowlands the atmosphere was
intensely hot and sultry; but upon the hill it was pure, cool, and
salubrious, so that we seemed quite in another country. When we again
set out on our journey, we travelled about a hundred miles without again
descending. The whole of this distance the country was one general flat,
and we did not find any descent till we got near Callenger, where the
ghaut is nearly as high.

In two days more we reached the new station of Mhow, the residence of
Sir John Malcolm, with whom we spent two pleasant days. Sir John was as
hospitable as he was brave, and his tables groaned under the luxuries of
the season. He possesses a profundity of wit; so that, wherever he is,
the whole company are sure to be on the broad grin. I should recommend
all people subject to liver complaints to pay Sir John a visit, if
opportunity favours them, and I would wager ten to one that, in one
month, he would laugh most of them out of their complaints. I was myself
suffering under a violent attack when I was his guest, and the smallest
motion, more particularly that caused by laughter, was attended with
most excruciating pain; but our host could almost make a dead man laugh.
The consequence was, that I laughed to some purpose, for I actually got
rid of my complaint. Sir John generally made it a point of getting me
close to him. He sa