endid last night, to a
degree, I understand that has not been seen since 1839. Visited the
Poor House; the establishment accommodates upwards of 2,000.
_June 16th._--Visited Pompeii, and Herculaneum, and Vesuvius. Met
with the Jesuit Prefect of Educational Institutions; and a Priest
from the United States. From the Jesuit I obtained a full account
of the educational institutions in Naples; from the American Priest
much useful information on various subjects. Ascended Mount
Vesuvius; when we reached the summit my face was burnt; lava
falling all round us--God of dreadful majesty, who art a "consuming
fire!" Beheld here the setting sun--God of glory who art "the light
of the world!" Descending we reached our hotel about midnight;
thank God for His protection and mercy.
_June 18th._--Went to the museum to examine the antiquities of
Herculaneum and Pompeii. Left for Leghorn.
_June 20th--Pisa._--Took a coach with two other gentlemen; a
beautiful ride of eight hours along the valley of the Arno, from
Pisa to Florence. The best cultivated country, and the best looking
peasantry I have ever seen; the river walled, and the bridges fine.
_June 24th._--The celebration of the Feast of John the Baptist,
commenced by a chariot race, after the fashion of the chariots in
the games of the Greeks and Romans.
_June 26th._--The Grand Duke of Tuscany will not allow Jesuits in
his dominion; but in Naples the Jesuits are all
powerful--confessors to the king and royal family--and that even an
artist cannot get employment who has not a Jesuit for a confessor.
_July 19th._--This day I leave Florence after four weeks of study,
and acquaintance with its schools, arts and science.
_July 20th--Bologna._--Crossed the Appenines, and had a view of the
Adriatic. Visited the Scoules Normali, containing upwards of 1,000
pupils.
_July 23rd._--Left Bologna in a vetturina for Ferrara, in company
with a German and two Americans. Ferrara is fallen, forsaken,
solitary.
_July 25th._--Crossed the Po in a curious ferry-boat, and entered
the Lombardo-Venetian dominions of Austria. Here I met with the
first instance in Italy of money not being asked by Custom House
officers; every part of the proceeding indicated dignity unknown to
the Papal States. Crossed the
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