grip for the right hand. It has also the advantage
that the chisel can be held against the centre of the body and exactly
under one's eyes.

In the diagram (fig. 12), if the wood from A to A1 is to be cleared
away, gouge cuts are made at _b_ and _b_1, then the space between _b_
and _b_1 may be quickly cleared without risk to the edge of the form at
A. When this rough work is done the little ridge between A and _b_ may
be cleared with small round or flat tools, as is most convenient. But
this final clearing should not be done until all the large spaces are
roughed out.

[Illustration: FIG. 11.--Method of holding gouge.]

[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Clearing of wood between knife cuts.]

The depth to which the spaces must be cleared will depend on their
width, as, in printing, the paper will sag more deeply in a wide space
than in a narrow one. In spaces of half an inch the depth of the first
V-cuts is sufficient, but the proportionate depth is about that of the
diagram above. The small spaces are cleared by means of small flat or
round chisels without the mallet or the preliminary gouge cut: this is
only needed where a large space has to be cleared.

There remain now only the placing and cutting of the two register marks
or notches for controlling the position of the paper in printing.

These are placed relatively to the design as shown in fig. 13.

The corner of the print fits into the notch at A, and one edge of the
print lies against the straight notch at B.

The register marks may be even closer to the space covered by the
design, but must not actually touch it, as some margin of paper is
necessary in printing: they should also be cut always on the long side
of the printing block. It will be seen from the drawing on page 70 that
these register marks correspond to the position of the thumb of each
hand in laying the paper on the block for printing.

[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Position of register marks.]

[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Register marks.]

The corner mark, ABC, is made by cutting from A to B and B to C, with
the knife held perpendicularly, and its flat side against the line, then
the shaded portion is cut with a flat chisel, sloping from the surface
of the block at AC to a depth of about 1/16 inch along AB and BC. The
straight notch, EF, is similarly cut, first with a perpendicular knife
along EF, and then the shaded portion is chiselled sloping down to the
line EF.

[Illustration: FIG. 15.--Register