d increased the disorder instead of lessening it. We were
grieved to find that our presence had such unfortunate results; but what
could we do? We could not render the mules less timid, nor prevent the
camels from having a frightful appearance. One of us, at last,
determined to run on before the caravan, and inform the people of the
approach of the camels. This precaution diminished the evil, which did
not, however, entirely cease until we were outside the gates of the town.

We had intended to breakfast at Ping-Lou-Hien; but, not having
conciliated the good-will of its inhabitants, we dared not stop there.
We had only the courage to purchase some provisions, for which we paid an
exorbitant price, the occasion not being favourable for bargaining. At
some distance from the town, we came to a guard-house, where we stopped
to rest awhile, and to take our morning repast. These guard-houses are
very numerous in China, the rule being that there shall be one of them at
every half-league, on all the great roads. Of a singular and entirely
Chinese construction, these barracks consist of a little edifice, either
of wood or earth, but always whitewashed. In the centre, is a kind of
shed, entirely without furniture, and with one large opening in front.
This is reserved for unfortunate travellers, who, during the night, being
overtaken by bad weather, cannot take refuge in an inn. On each side is
a little room with doors and windows, and sometimes with a wooden bench
painted red, by way of furniture. The exterior of the barrack is
decorated with rude pictures, representing the gods of war, cavalry, and
fabulous animals; on the walls of the shed are drawn all the weapons used
in China, matchlocks, bows, and arrows, lances, bucklers, and sabres of
every description. At a little distance from the barrack, you see on the
right a square tower, and on the left, five small posts standing in a
line. These denote the five lis which are the distance from one
guard-house to another; frequently a large board, on two poles, informs
the traveller of the names of the nearest towns, in that quarter. The
directions on the board now before us were these:--

From Ping-Lou-Hien to Ning-Hia, fifty lis.

Northwards to Ping-Lou-Hien, five lis.

Southwards to Ning-Hia, forty-five lis.

In time of war, the square tower serves during the night for giving
signals by means of fireworks, combined in particular ways. The Chinese
rel