journey we were now undertaking was
perfectly in harmony with his erratic and adventurous taste. He was,
however, of no mortal service to us as a guide across the deserts of
Tartary, for he knew no more of the country than we knew ourselves. Our
only informants were a compass, and the excellent map of the Chinese
empire by Andriveau-Goujon.

The first portion of our journey, after leaving Yan-Pa-Eul, was
accomplished without interruption, sundry anathemas excepted, which were
hurled against us as we ascended a mountain, by a party of Chinese
merchants, whose mules, upon sight of our camels and our own yellow
attire, became frightened, and took to their heels at full speed,
dragging after them, and in one or two instances, overturning the waggons
to which they were harnessed.

[Picture: Mountain of Sain-Oula]

The mountain in question is called _Sain-Oula_ (Good Mountain), doubtless
_ut lucus a non lucendo_, since it is notorious for the dismal accidents
and tragical adventures of which it is the theatre. The ascent is by a
rough, steep path, half-choked up with fallen rocks. Mid-way up is a
small temple, dedicated to the divinity of the mountain, _Sain-Nai_, (the
good old Woman;) the occupant is a priest, whose business it is, from
time to time, to fill up the cavities in the road, occasioned by the
previous rains, in consideration of which service he receives from each
passenger a small gratuity, constituting his revenue. After a toilsome
journey of nearly three hours we found ourselves at the summit of the
mountain, upon an immense plateau, extending from east to west a long
day's journey, and from north to south still more widely. From this
summit you discern, afar off in the plains of Tartary, the tents of the
Mongols, ranged semi-circularly on the slopes of the hills, and looking
in the distance like so many bee-hives. Several rivers derive their
source from the sides of this mountain. Chief among these is the
_Chara-Mouren_ (Yellow River--distinct, of course, from the great Yellow
River of China, the _Hoang-Ho_)--the capricious, course of which the eye
can follow on through the kingdom of _Gechekten_, after traversing which,
and then the district of _Naiman_, it passes the stake-boundary into
Mantchouria, and flowing from north to south, falls into the sea,
approaching which it assumes the name _Leao-Ho_.

The _Good Mountain_ is noted for its intense frosts. There is not a
winter