e shepherds, folding
their tents, had driven their herds before them, and proceeded, no matter
whither, in search of fresh fields and pastures new.

[Picture: Tartar Encampment]

After having journeyed the entire day through the delicious prairies of
the Red Banner, we halted to encamp for the night in a valley that seemed
full of people. We had scarcely alighted, when a number of Tartars
approached, and offered their services. After having assisted us to
unload our camels, and set up our house of blue linen, they invited us to
come and take tea in their tents. As it was late, however, we stayed at
home, promising to pay them a visit next morning; for the hospitable
invitation of our new neighbours determined us to remain for a day
amongst them. We were, moreover, very well pleased to profit by the
beauty of the weather, and of the locality, to recover from the fatigues
we had undergone the day before.

Next morning, the time not appropriated to our little household cares,
and the recitation of our Breviary, was devoted to visiting the Mongol
tents, Samdadchiemba being left at home in charge of the tent.

We had to take especial care to the safety of our legs, menaced by a
whole host of watchdogs. A small stick sufficed for the purpose; but
Tartar etiquette required us to leave these weapons at the threshold of
our host's abode. To enter a man's tent with a whip or a stick in your
hand is as great an insult as you can offer to the family; and quite
tantamount to saying, "You are all dogs."

Visiting amongst the Tartars is a frank, simple affair, altogether exempt
from the endless formalities of Chinese gentility. On entering, you give
the word of peace _amor_ or _mendou_, to the company generally. You then
seat yourself on the right of the head of the family, whom you find
squatting on the floor, opposite the entrance. Next, everybody takes
from a purse suspended at his girdle a little snuff-bottle, and mutual
pinches accompany such phrases as these: "Is the pasturage with you rich
and abundant?" "Are your herds in fine condition?" "Are your mares
productive?" "Did you travel in peace?" "Does tranquillity prevail?"
and so on. These questions and their answers being interchanged always
with intense gravity on both sides, the mistress of the tent, without
saying a word, holds out her hand to the visitor. He as silently takes
from his breast-pocket the small wooden bowl, the indisp