from its entrance was the Hotel of San Fernando,
situated upon its left bank, which we reached about noon, and finding
the heat oppressive, gladly availed ourselves of the protection of its
roof, and the refreshment of a shower bath, which no one can appreciate
more than a person who has been confined on board a man of war, with
"one wide water all around" him, and but few chances to use it.

Took dinner at the hotel, and having thus refreshed and fortified the
inner man, hired a "piscante" (a carriage to contain two persons), and
drove, through the suburbs, out to the Calcada, to reach which, had to
cross a magnificent, but ancient bridge over the Pasig.

The Calcada is the fashionable drive, and the meaning of the word is a
causeway, or raised road; it extends along the walls of the city, and
its centre, as well as each of its sides, is planted with fine flowering
trees. A space is left between the double row of trees in the centre, in
which are placed mounted guards, in showy uniforms, and mounted on
splendid horses, to preserve order, and prevent collision of carriages,
which are not permitted to pass out of a line, but must enter the passeo
from the city at the left, and are obliged to follow each other at a
slow pace and return upon the opposite side in the same order; the duty
of the patrol being to see that no carriage leaves its place in the
line.

This part of the road forms the chord of a semi-circle, whilst a
continuation, not planted, is the segment, which turning round the walls
of the city extends along the beach of the bay, giving a fine view of
the shipping in the roads.

From the Calcada branch roads, leading to different points on this
beautiful island, and these drives are truly magnificent. The roads
are natural, and smooth as the most carefully kept lawn, your carriage
rolls along them with so even a motion, and the scenery through which
you drive is of such an oriental character, and the produce so
luxuriant and rare, its fragrance so sweet, that one leans back in his
easy-going piscante, totally forgetful of every thing but the present
enjoyment, and almost realizing the ideas of fairy land which fancy
wove

"In Life's young day."

On the evening of our first day in Manilla, after returning from our
drive, directed the "cochero" to take us to the theatre; he accordingly
drove us to the Carillo quarter, and to the theatre of that name. Were
admitted on the payment of two reals each, an