AY, JULY 21ST.

Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English
for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and
two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning
nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines.
Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and
island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most
delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one
side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they
are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20]
1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in
the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different
to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at
St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of
them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into
the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water
towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old
female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little
one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic
chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood.
Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more
Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my
visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have
been spent delightfully.

TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.

Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear
father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the
mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good
deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so
pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some
ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the
Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side
and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked
to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found
nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just
before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not
going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the
agents