ars and 1/2
for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which
a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture
was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and
recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M.
a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn;
an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a
change in the English Ministry.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.

Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time
for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the
boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory
nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his
lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.;
found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived
at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls;
engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten
nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the
Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense
sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe;
returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between
the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous
Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was
blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the
air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the
tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as
well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground
and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.

THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.

Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid
the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A
favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water
in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my
baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who
came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and
set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the
hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it
proved further than I expected I gave him a g