l with a little more knowledge than we possessed
on this particular occasion.

We did not know at this time what Magnesia could do for us in the way of
an inn, though we were quite aware of the fact, that throughout the
kingdom khans are provided for the accommodation of travellers. What we
had seen in this way was very undesirable, being little more than what
might serve to minister to the comfort of the horses. In some places,
the subsiding stream of travellers has left them bare and ruined; in
others, Smyrna to wit, there is so ready entertainment elsewhere, that
the khan has become little more than a public stable yard. And here, any
time of the day, you may see tethered a collection of donkeys that would
set up all the costermongers in London, and drivers who would surely
make fortunes by their lessons, if their brethren of Hampstead possessed
ambition and gratitude. The vulgar argument of the stick may be
occasionally exhibited, but it is by the magic of a single word that the
energies of the donkey are usually aroused. And the mystery of the
training is this, that neither words nor blows are effective, except
from the initiated. Often it will happen, that after long trial of
coaxing, the meekest rider will be betrayed into the experiment of
cudgelling. It will then certainly happen, that after having cudgelled
his full, he will yield the victory to the impassible brute, and be
reduced to hope, that when he has had thistles enough, he may be induced
to move on. Suddenly there sounds behind him the exclamation of _Deah!
Deah!_ and the donkey starts into a dislocating trot. This is your true
driver's policy, to make his presence and aid indispensable. By dint of
great practice, I acquired a pretty accurate imitation of this sound,
and have practised it successfully. But the animals were quick to
discover the imposture, and to punish it by extra impassibility.

Many of the best khans or caravansaries are of royal foundation; others,
like the fountains, the monuments of departed piety. But much as we
might admire the institution, we could not feel very ambitious of
occupying a billet of so very gregarious and inexclusive character.
Besides, in these khans you must provide for yourself all that you
require in the shape of provisions; and it was too much of a good thing
to carry with us tea, and bread and butter. We clung to the hope of
finding lodging in the shade of domestic hospitality, the rather because
of our rec