recollection.

"The Albanians in general (I do not mean the cultivators of the earth
in the provinces, who have also that appellation, but the
mountaineers) have a fine cast of countenance; and the most beautiful
women I have ever beheld, in stature and in features, we saw
levelling the road broken down by the torrents between Delvinaki and
Libokavo. Their manner of walking is truly theatrical, but this
strut is probably the effect of the capote or cloak depending from
one shoulder. Their long hair reminds you of the Spartans, and their
courage in desultory warfare is unquestionable. Though they have
some cavalry among the Gedges, I never saw a good Arnaout horseman,
but on foot they are never to be subdued."

The travellers having left Volondorako proceeded southward until they
came near to the seaside, and passing along the shore, under a castle
belonging to Ali Pasha, on the lofty summit of a steep rock, they at
last reached Nicopolis again, the ruins of which they revisited.

On their arrival at Prevesa, they had no choice left but that of
crossing Carnia, and the country being, as already mentioned, overrun
with robbers, they provided themselves with a guard of thirty-seven
soldiers, and procured another galliot to take them down the Gulf of
Arta, to the place whence they were to commence their land journey.

Having embarked, they continued sailing with very little wind until
they reached the fortress of Vonitza, where they waited all night for
the freshening of the morning breeze, with which they again set sail,
and about four o'clock in the afternoon arrived at Utraikee.

At this place there was only a custom house and a barrack for troops
close to each other, and surrounded, except towards the water, by a
high wall. In the evening the gates were secured, and preparations
made for feeding their Albanian guards; a goat was killed and roasted
whole, and four fires were kindled in the yard, around which the
soldiers seated themselves in parties. After eating and drinking,
the greater part of them assembled at the largest of the fires, and,
while the travellers were themselves with the elders of the party
seated on the ground, danced round the blaze to their own songs, with
astonishing Highland energy.

Childe Harold at a little distance stood,
And view'd, but not displeased, the revelry,
Nor hated harmless mirth, however rude;
In sooth, it was no vulgar sight to see
Their barbarous, ye