ished Themistocles; the moderns cheat Monsieur Roque:
thus great men have ever been treated.
"In short, all the Franks who are fixtures, and most of the
Englishmen, Germans, Danes, etc., of passage, came over by degrees to
their opinion, on much the same grounds that a Turk in England would
condemn the nation by wholesale, because he was wronged by his lackey
and overcharged by his washerwoman. Certainly, it was not a little
staggering when the Sieurs Fauvel and Lusieri, the two greatest
demagogues of the day, who divide between them the power of Pericles
and the popularity of Cleon, and puzzle the poor Waywode with
perpetual differences, agreed in the utter condemnation of the Greeks
in general, and of the Athenians in particular."
I have quoted his Lordship thus particularly because after his
arrival at Athens he laid down his pen. Childe Harold there
disappears. Whether he had written the pilgrimage up to that point
at Athens I have not been able to ascertain; while I am inclined to
think it was so, as I recollect he told me there that he had then
described or was describing the reception he had met with at
Tepellene from Ali Pasha.
After having halted some time at Athens, where they established their
headquarters, the travellers, when they had inspected the principal
antiquities of the city (those things which all travellers must
visit), made several excursions into the environs, and among other
places went to Eleusis.
On the 13th of January they mounted earlier than usual, and set out
on that road which has the site of the Academy and the Colonos, the
retreat of OEdipus during his banishment, a little to the right; they
then entered the Olive Groves, crossed the Cephessus, and came to an
open, well-cultivated plain, extending on the left to the Piraeus and
the sea. Having ascended by a gentle acclivity through a pass, at
the distance of eight or ten miles from Athens, the ancient
Corydallus, now called Daphnerouni, they came, at the bottom of a
piney mountain, to the little monastery of Daphne, the appearance and
situation of which are in agreeable unison. The monastery was then
fast verging into that state of the uninhabitable picturesque so much
admired by young damsels and artists of a romantic vein. The pines
on the adjacent mountains hiss as they ever wave their boughs, and
somehow, such is the lonely aspect of the place, that their hissing
may be imagined to breathe satire against the pretensio
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