salutation is to fling themselves flat on their backs, and roll from
side to side, slapping the outside of their naked thighs.

The country abounds with game. Buffaloes and zebras by the hundred
grazed on the open spaces. At one time their procession was interrupted
by three buffaloes who came dashing through their ranks. Livingstone's
ox set off at a furious gallop. Looking back, he saw one of his men
flung up into the air by a toss from one of the beasts, who had carried
him on his horns for twenty yards before giving the final pitch. The
fellow came down flat on his face, but the skin was not pierced, and no
bone was broken. His comrades gave him a brisk shampooing, and in a week
he was as well as ever.

The border country passed, the natives grew more friendly, and gladly
supplied all the wants of the travelers. About the middle of December,
when their journey was half over, they came upon the first traces of
Europeans--a deserted town, a ruined church, and a broken bell inscribed
with a cross and the letters I. H. S., but bearing no date. A few days
after they met a man wearing a hat and jacket. He had come from the
Portuguese settlement of Tete, far down the river. From him they learned
that a war was going on below, between the Portuguese and the natives.
A chief, named Mpende, showed signs of hostility. Livingstone's men,
who had become worn and ragged by their long journey, rejoiced at the
prospect of a fight. "Now," said they, "we shall get corn and clothes in
plenty. You have seen us with elephants, but you don't know what we can
do with men." After a while two old men made their appearance, to
find out who the strangers were. "I am a Lekoa (Englishman)," said
Livingstone. "We don't know that tribe," they replied; "we suppose you
are a Mozunga (Portuguese)." Upon Livingstone's showing them his long
hair and the white skin of his bosom they exclaimed, "We never saw so
white a skin as that. You must be one of that tribe that loves the black
men." Livingstone eagerly assured him that such was the case. Sekwebu,
the leader of his men, put in a word: "Ah, if you only knew him as well
as we do, who have lived with him, you would know how highly he values
your friendship; and as he is a stranger he trusts in you to direct
him." The chief, convinced that he was an Englishman, received the party
hospitably and forwarded them on their way.

The frequent appearance of English goods showed that they were
approaching th