rps upon the willow, sang sad songs and wept bitter tears.

I gathered sufficient courage to call upon the editor of the daily paper,
and his gentlemanly reception was very reassuring. He gave me a lengthy
and commendatory notice, and this emanating from a man with five wives
gave me a more charitable sentiment than I had formerly maintained toward
Mormon institutions, and it likewise gave me courage and a better opinion
as to my prospects. We remained there two days, and met with such
unexpected success that we turned in a more hopeful mood toward Salt Lake
City.

On the road to that city is a celebrated sulphur spring, whose presence is
indicated for miles before it is reached by somewhat infernal fumes. A
woman in the car, overcome by the unpleasant odor, exclaimed, in evident
disgust: "Is that the way the Mormons smell?" She seemed so impressed with
the nearness of his Satanic Majesty, whom she intimately associated with
Mormondom, that it recalled the somewhat vulgar story of the "Teuton,"
who, in nearing the Virginia White Sulphur Springs, with the same fumes in
his nostrils, cried out: "Mein Gott! pe shure, hell is not more as a mile
off!"

Arriving at Salt Lake City at the close of a beautiful day, the western
sky gleaming with the royally gorgeous hues of a clear, bright sunset,
while the delightful surroundings and stimulating atmosphere lured us to
walk from the depot.

Salt Lake being at that time a city of twenty thousand souls, and this
being prior to the opening of the mines, it was probably in the hey-day of
its beauty, and could boast of but one saloon, whereas they are now very
numerous. Its broad, regular avenues were shaded with trees of such
immense growth as are known only in our western lands, the coolness and
shade of whose leafy, spreading branches invitingly appeal to the
passer-by. Streams of limpid, crystal water, born in the pure mountain
snows, gurgle down each street, and, in their beautiful borders of
nature's green enamel, impart an almost marvelous beauty to the city.

The twenty-third of July being the twenty-third anniversary of the
founding of the "City of the Saints," I had the pleasure of going to their
Temple and listening to the earnest oratory of their representative men,
and among them the "Prophet" himself. George Francis Train being also a
visitor in the city, gave a characteristic oration, in which he rehearsed
the pilgrimage of this people, their persecution, privations