ing was displayed by a people, that we enlightened Europeans
consider rude and inhuman! The leader of our escort, however, was far
less obliging and polite to us than the Japanese officers had formerly
been. Although there was no lack of horses in the neighborhood, we
were obliged to walk, and were no longer carried over streams of
water, but forced to wade through them. When it rained, too, they did
not hold umbrellas over us, but covered us with mats. We soon became
very much fatigued, especially I, for the pain in my leg grew more
violent every moment. During that night, which was unusually dark,
they led us along with the greatest caution. We walked in single file,
and before each of us, as also before the leader of the band, a
lantern was carried. Men, too, with lights in their hands, went
before, and came after the procession. Near steep cliffs, and deep
ravines, a crowd of people, who had been summoned from the neighboring
villages to attend us on our journey back to Matsmai, shook out
bundles of straw, which they carried, and set fire to them, so that it
was as bright as day. Had an European seen our train in the distance,
he would have imagined that we were carrying along the mortal remains
of some distinguished man. On the third of May, we arrived at Matsmai,
and halted before the gates of the town. An imperial officer
immediately made his appearance, and without saying a word began
thoroughly to search us. We remarked to him that he might save himself
the trouble, as he would find nothing on us.

"I know that very well," replied he, coolly, "but the laws of Japan
require it."

As soon as he had performed his duty, the soldiers who accompanied us
put on their city clothing, and with slow and weary steps we took our
way back into the town. The officer who had taken us prisoners, rode a
horse richly caparisoned with silk, and looked round on all sides with
the air of a proud victor, returning laden with the spoils of
conquest, and who, for his heroic deeds, claimed laurels and thanks
from his countrymen. The crowd of spectators was immense, and as it
rained, and they all carried umbrellas, the sight was a strange one.

IX.

We were taken directly to the castle. Formerly we had always worn our
caps until we entered the court, but now we were obliged to take them
off at the castle gates. After being taken into an ante-chamber, and
treated to rice-broth, salted radishes, and tea without sugar, they
led us in