nd
observation, as he did his horseback ride across the continent,
from Boston to San Francisco, in 1876. He wished to thoroughly
understand the people of the great valley, their social conditions,
industries and modes of life. He also expected to obtain much
enjoyment from the changing scenery and climate. Had he travelled
by steamboat or railway, he would have been whisked through the
country in a week or so, and would have had absolutely no
opportunity for obtaining an inside view of the condition of
affairs. In addition to seeing the country, the Captain designed
delivering a lecture prepared specially for the purpose on the
'Pioneers of the Mississippi,' in all the important towns on his
route. The lecture treated chiefly of the early explorers--De Soto,
Marquette, La Salle, and Hennepin.

"Actuated by these motives, he procured a fine cedar canoe of the
Rushton model, which he shipped to Aitkin, the most northerly point
on the river reached by rail. He then went forward, himself, to
Saint Paul, accompanied by his brother, where he was joined by his
present companion, and there made final preparations for the long
voyage.

"At Brainerd the party left the line of the Northern Pacific
Railroad, and proceeded by wagon over a road, which was hardly more
than a trail, to Leech Lake, where the Government has an Indian
Agency. The country traversed was exceedingly wild, being almost
without inhabitants, and covered with a growth of jack-pines. It
being the blueberry season, quite a number of Indians were seen
picking that fruit, which grows there in abundance. As a rule the
braves lay in the shade, smoking or sleeping, while the squaws and
children did the picking. At night they found a stopping-place at
Pine River, and the following afternoon arrived at the Agency,
where there are two trading-posts and a number of white men.

"Here three birch-bark canoes were purchased, and the services of
an equal number of Indian guides procured, one of whom also acted
in the capacity of interpreter. All of these were required to reach
the source of the river, which was a matter of great difficulty and
some danger. Lake Itasca, which was then supposed by most people to
be the source of the Mississippi, lay five days' journey away,
through an almost i