e gentlemen,
each led by its swarthy driver, while alongside a young Arab gentleman
careered upon a white charger with crimson and gold saddle and
trappings, followed by a mounted attendant almost equally magnificent.
To crown the whole, or at least give it state, there were some two or
three hundred Arab spectators. Only once before had such a scene been
witnessed in Biskra, when some years previously the wife of a French
general had visited the oasis.

It was not without considerable difficulty that we got started. The
camels are made to kneel, and thus it is easy enough to mount, but then
begins the ordeal. While the huge beast raises itself on its
double-jointed limbs you undergo a series of painful jerks which nothing
but the most undaunted courage enables you to endure. Determination,
however, overcomes all difficulties, and at last our cortege was en
route. The mounted attendant acted as outrider to clear the way, while
he of the milk-white steed, the caid's son, rode gallantly by my side.

I could have fancied myself a queen of Sheba or some Eastern houri
screened by silken curtains from the vulgar gaze. What extravagances my
imagination in its pride might have led me into it is impossible to say,
but for the bodily discomfort. The camel is called the "ship of the
desert," but surely no ship ever pitched and rolled so unmercifully. The
howdah too, which was loosely slung upon the creature's back, only added
to the naturally uncomfortable motion. In fact, this cage-like erection
was only kept in its place by ropes attached to it which were held by
two men who walked one on each side. As the thing swung one way, the man
opposite pulled it back, and _vice versa_, altogether regardless of my
feelings in the matter.

We have since found out, by experience in Egypt, that these camels were
of what may be called the cart-horse breed, and there is about as much
difference in riding such a one and a properly-trained dromedary as
there is between a dray-horse and a thoroughbred. Thus, if we were proud
of our exaltation, we paid dearly for our pride, and when we returned
from our excursion it was with a feeling of every limb being out of
joint. It was days before we had completely recovered from the effects
of this our first and, as I devoutly hoped, our last camel-ride. From
this time forward the caid's son, who spoke French tolerably well, paid
us almost daily visits, and although he had never been beyond the bounds
of