om playing the inevitable tom-tom.
This Arab danseuse was as unlike our performers of the ballet as she
well could be. Her clothing was a loose flowing drapery, which fell from
her shoulders to her heels, while instead of agility of motion or
sprightliness there was nothing but a dreamy gliding, a kind of
somnambulistic movement, apparently without plan or purpose, but not
without a certain grace. In another cafe two children were pulling each
other about in a less graceful and equally meaningless dance; while in a
third we found a professional story-teller holding forth in earnest
tones to a group gathered closely round him. From the looks of the
spectators it was impossible to say whether or not they took pleasure in
the various performances. During the time we remained we beheld not a
movement of applause: not a smile relaxed the grave, stolid features;
there was but a calm gazing and a quiet puffing of smoke from mouth and
nostrils.

A day or two after our arrival we deemed it our duty to call upon the
commandant to thank him for his politeness, and to tell him how well
satisfied we were with our quarters at the Hotel Bourguignon. Seated
with him we found the great man of the district, the caid, making a
morning call. It was our first introduction to a real Arab gentleman,
and we regretted exceedingly that we could not converse with him in his
own language, the more especially as he was a travelled man. He had been
to Paris, had been received at the Tuileries by the emperor Napoleon,
and had made the grand Mohammedan pilgrimage to Mecca. But as a
conversation with Arabs, conducted as ours was through the medium of a
French interpreter, is necessarily restricted, we had little opportunity
of judging whether or not the mind of the caid corresponded with his
handsome exterior.

[Illustration: ARAB CAMP NEAR BISKRA.]

On my mentioning that I had a great desire to try a camel-ride, the caid
volunteered to send camels for our party, and to see that mine was
properly caparisoned for the comfort and accommodation of a lady; and
also to send his son to attend to my safety. Of course we accepted his
polite offer, and the afternoon of the same day was fixed for the
expedition. Never can we forget the sight which presented itself to our
astonished eyes when we went to our hotel-door at the appointed hour.
There was the lady's camel, with a howdah on its back hung with
curtains of damask and gold. There were the camels for th