dences.

_The Oriental City._--The eastern half of Cairo is divided into many
quarters. These quarters were formerly closed at night by massive gates. A
few of these gates remain. In addition to the Mahommedan quarters, usually
called after the trade of the inhabitants or some notable building, there
are the Copt or Christian quarter, the Jews' quarter and the old "Frank"
quarter. The last is the Muski district where, since the days of Saladin,
"Frank" merchants have been permitted to live and trade. Some of the
principal European shops are still to be found in this street. The Copt and
Jewish quarters lie north of the Muski. The Coptic cathedral, dedicated to
St Mark, is a modern building in the basilica style. The oldest Coptic
church in Cairo is, probably, the Keniset-el-Adra, or Church of the Virgin,
which is stated to preserve the original type of Coptic basilica. The
Coptic churches in the city are not, however, of so much interest as those
in Old Cairo (see below). In the Copt quarter are also Armenian, Syrian,
Maronite, Greek and Roman Catholic churches. In the Copt and Jewish
quarters the streets, as in the Arab quarters, are winding and narrow. In
them the projecting upper stories of the houses nearly meet. Sebils or
public fountains are numerous. These fountains are generally two-storeyed,
the lower chamber enclosing a well, the upper room being often used for
scholastic purposes. Many of the fountains are fine specimens of Arab
architecture. While the houses of the poorer classes are mean and too often
dirty, in marked contrast are the houses of the wealthier citizens, built
generally in a style of elaborate arabesque, the windows shaded with
projecting cornices of graceful woodwork (_mushrebiya_) and ornamented with
stained glass. A winding passage leads through the ornamental doorway into
the court, in the centre of which is a fountain shaded with palm-trees. The
principal apartment is generally paved with marble; in the centre a
decorated lantern is suspended over a fountain, while round the sides are
richly inlaid cabinets and windows of stained glass; and in a recess is the
_divan_, a low, narrow, cushioned seat. The basement storey is generally
built of the soft calcareous stone of the neighbouring hills, and the upper
storey, which contains the harem, of painted brick. The shops of the
merchants are small and open to the street. The greater part of the trade
is done, however, in the bazaars or markets,