huge
spurs with bell rowels; and he is never seen without the "seraph". The
last is his bed, his blanket, his cloak, and his umbrella.

His wife may be seen moving about the rancho, or upon her knees before
the metate kneading tortillas, and besmearing them with _chile Colorado_
(red capsicum). She wears a petticoat or skirt of a naming bright
colour, very short, showing her well-turned but stockingless ankles,
with her small slippered feet. Her arms, neck, and part of her bosom
are nude, but half concealed by the bluish-grey scarf (_rebozo_) that
hangs loosely over her head.

The ranchero leads a free, easy life, burthened with few cares. He is
the finest rider in the world, following his cattle on horseback, and
never makes even the shortest journey on foot. He plays upon the
bandolin, sings an Andalusian ditty, and is fond of _chingarito_ (mezcal
whisky) and the "fandango."

Such is the ranchero of the _tierra caliente_ around Vera Cruz, and such
is he in all other parts of Mexico, from its northern limits to the
Isthmus.

But in the _tierra caliente_ you may also see the rich planter of
cotton, or sugar-cane, or cocoa (_cacao_), or the vanilla bean. His
home is the "hacienda". This is a still livelier picture. There are
many fields inclosed and tilled. They are irrigated by the water from a
small stream. Upon its banks there are cocoa-trees; and out of the rich
moist soil shoot up rows of the majestic plantain, whose immense
yellow-green leaves, sheathing the stem and then drooping gracefully
over, render it one of the most ornamental productions of the tropics,
as its clustering legumes of farinaceous fruit make it one of the most
useful. Low walls, white or gaily painted, appear over the fields, and
a handsome spire rises above the walls. That is the "hacienda" of the
planter--the "rico" of the _tierra caliente_, with its out-buildings and
chapel belfry. You approach it through scenes of cultivation. "Peons",
clad in white cotton and reddish leathern garments, are busy in the
fields. Upon their heads are broad-brimmed hats, woven from the leaf of
the sombrero palm. Their legs are naked, and upon their feet are tied
rude sandals (_guaraches_) with leathern thongs. Their skins are dark,
though not black; their eyes are wild and sparkling; their looks grave
and solemn; their hair coarse, long, and crow-black; and, as they walk,
their toes turn inward. Their downcast looks, their attitudes and