a" aloe; but the
interstices between are left open, so as freely to admit the breeze.
Coolness, not warmth, is the object of these buildings. The roof is a
thatch of palm-leaves, and with far-impending eaves casts off the heavy
rain of the tropics. The appearance is striking--more picturesque even
than the chalet of Switzerland.

There is but little furniture within. There is no table; there are few
chairs, and these of raw hide nailed upon a rude frame. There are
bedsteads of bamboo; the universal tortilla-stone; mats of palm-leaf;
baskets of the same material; a small altar-like fireplace in the middle
of the floor; a bandolin hanging by the wall; a saddle of stamped
leather, profusely ornamented with silver nails and plates; a hair
bridle, with huge Mameluke bit; an escopette and sword, or machete; an
endless variety of gaily-painted bowls, dishes, and cups, but neither
knife, fork, nor spoon. Such are the movables of a "rancho" in the
_tierra caliente_.

You may see the ranchero by the door, or attending to his small, wiry,
and spirited horse, outside. The man himself is either of Spanish blood
or a "mestizo" (half-breed). He is rarely a pure Indian, who is most
commonly a peon or labourer, and who can hardly be termed a "ranchero"
in its proper sense.

The ranchero is picturesque--his costume exceedingly so. His complexion
is swarthy, his hair is black, and his teeth are ivory white. He is
often moustached, but rarely takes the trouble to trim or keep these
ornaments in order. His whisker is seldom bushy or luxuriant. His
trousers (_calzoneros_) are of green or dark velvet, open down the
outside seams, and at the bottoms overlaid with stamped black leather,
to defend the ankles of the wearer against the thorny chaparral. A row
of bell buttons, often silver, close the open seams when the weather is
cold. There are wide drawers (_calzoncillos_) of fine white cotton
underneath; and these puff out through the seams, forming a tasty
contrast with the dark velvet. A silken sash, generally of scarlet
colour, encircles the waist; and its fringed ends hang over the hips.
The hunting-knife is stuck under it. There is a short jacket of
velveteen, tastefully embroidered and buttoned; a white cambric shirt,
elaborately worked and plaited; and over all a heavy, broad-brimmed hat
(_sombrero_), with silver or gold band, and tags of the same material
sticking out from the sides. He wears boots of red leather, and