where
they hired ponies to take them to the foot of the cone; each one
supplied himself with a good stout stick to assist his ascent, and
Michael Angelo went with them as general manager of the expedition.

On riding, up they found the road good at first, but soon it
became somewhat rough. It left the fertile meadows and vineyards
at the base of the mountain, and ran over a wild, rocky country,
which looked, as Uncle Moses said, like the "abomination of
desolation." No verdure appeared, no houses, no flocks, and
herds--all was wild, and savage, and dismal. After passing over
these lava fields, the party reached what is called the "Hermitage"
--a kind of refreshment station near the foot of the cone. Resting
here, for a little way they proceeded on foot. The path was now
rugged and difficult, and ascended at so steep an angle that it
became rather climbing than walking. After a toilsome walk this
path ended at the foot of the cone.

Here the mountain arose grandly before them, with its smoke-cloud
overhanging its steep sides, ascending from where they stood to
where the view was lost in smoke. At one part there was a surface
of loose sand, and at another wild, disordered heaps of crumbled
lava blocks. Over these last Michael Angelo led them, for these
blocks formed stepping-stones by which to make the ascent. A number
of men were here with chairs and straps, who offered them assistance;
but they all declined, even Uncle Moses choosing to rely on his
unassisted muscle.

Then they began the ascent of the cone. The lava blocks were of
all sizes, and lay strewn loosely down the steep side. It was like
ascending a long, rough stairway, where all the steps are irregular.
It was laborious and tedious. Often they had to stop and rest.
Uncle Moses felt it most, and the boys had frequently to stop rather
on his account. But when they had traversed about two thirds of
the way, they began to grow more excited, and in Bob this excitement
was most evident. Thinking that the others would take sufficient
care of Uncle Moses, he started off alone, and soon was far up,
clambering over the rocks like a young chamois.

Usually there is one side of the crater which is accessible. There
is almost always some wind which blows the smoke away, and on the
windward side the visitor can stand and breathe freely. On the
present occasion, however, there was little or no wind; and the
smoke, which was far denser than usual, gathered in thick, bl