ed them all that was
to be seen. He was not only an enthusiastic artist, but also an
antiquarian of no mean attainments; and while he could point out
to them the most beautiful spots on that lovely isle, he could also
talk learnedly about the ancient Capraea, and raise out of ancient
ruins theories about the pleasure-grounds of Tiberius.

But the most wonderful thing which they found there was the famous
grotto, so familiar to all from the accounts of tourists, and from
the well-known description in Hans Andersen's Improvisatore. After
that glowing, poetic, and enthusiastic narrative, no other need be
attempted. Here they passed three or four days, and when at length
they bade adieu to the artist and his wife, it was with many sincere
regrets on both sides, and many earnest wishes that they might meet
again.

After which they all went back to Naples.

CHAPTER XVII.

_Vesuvius.--Ponies and Sticks.--Sand and Lava.--The rocky Steps.--The
rolling, wrathful Smoke-clouds.--The Volcano warns them off.--The
lost Boy.--A fearful Search.--A desperate Effort.--The sulphurous
Vapors.--Over the sliding Sands._

The sight of Vesuvius from a distance had filled David with an
ardent desire to visit it, and all the rest shared this feeling.
Vesuvius was before them always. The great cloud of dense, black
smoke, which hung over it like a pall, was greater, and denser,
and blacker than usual. The crater was disturbed. There were rumbling
noises in its wondrous interior; and all around and all beneath
the volcano gave signs of an approaching eruption. Sometimes the
smoke, as it ascended from the crater, would tower up in the air
for thousands of feet, far into the sky, a black pillar, which at
the summit spread out on all sides, giving to the spectator the
vision of a colossal palm tree--the shape and the sign which is
the inevitable forerunner of an approaching eruption. At other
times the sulphur-laden clouds would hang low over the crest of
the mountain, and roll far down its sides, and envelop it in its
dense, black, voluminous folds.

As yet, in spite of these appearances, the ascent might be made in
safety, though every day lessened the chances of an ascent by
increasing the danger. This they learned from Michael Angelo, their
guide, whom they had engaged to make the ascent; so they determined
to go without any farther delay. Accordingly, two days after their
excursion to Baiae, they set out, going first to Portici,