re the loss of distinction will be the
loss of trade. The rough, astringent, thirst-creating smack is the
produce of the brown malt, and a well conducted fermentation. The
porter now brewed can no more bear the sudden chill of a cooling
atmosphere in the barrel cleansing, without too immediate a
condensation and separation of its parts, than it is able to sustain
the quick changes of a warm atmosphere, without an immediate tendency
to acidity. As things now are, either extreme can only be avoided by a
more attentive advertence to the mode of _cleansing_, so as to prevent
a predominant tendency to either by adopting the means proposed, or
such other, on the same principles, as are equally likely to preserve
the quality, increase the strength, promote transparency, and avoid
acidity. I know it may be urged by the most able brewers, that a high
and rapid fermentation in the cleansing is a principal cause of that
flavour for which porter is distinguished; that this kind of fermentation
leads to a more perfect attenuation; and some of them may, with great
truth, add, a perfect attenuation is the genuine mode of early bringing
beer forward. This I most readily grant; it is the doctrine I wish to
inculcate. The greater gravity of keeping beers, preserves them in a
_mild state_, while their spirituosity prevents acidity. The flavour of
the colouring matter now in use, nor the change it induces, is not, by
any means, adapted to preserve the genuine flavour of porter, or
compensate for that made in the change of malt; a change I by no means
condemn, with respect to the malt; but however advantageous to the
length, we must not altogether give up flavour, while we may equally as
well, and indeed much better, preserve both by a due admixture of each
sort of malt, and with suitable additions and proper correctives in the
process or preparation of porter, both salubrious; as by the subsequent
mixture of stale and mild beer, before sending out, or, afterwards, by
drawing them from different casks into the same pot, when on draught,
to suit the palate of each respective customer.
I hope it is by this time understood, that my views are to raise the
_Process of Brewing_ above the vulgar error that tyrant custom has
entailed on it, and by the free exercise of the brewer's abilities,
both in a scientific and tradesman-like manner, so as advantageously to
preserve flavour and quality, with almost any proportions of every sort
of malt he may
|