racteristics of the life in question are being replaced by those
more appropriate to civilization. Yet the researches of the bureau in
question are not carried on in any narrow spirit, and will supply the
future student of humanity with valuable pictures of the most heroic
of all races, and yet doomed, apparently, to ultimate extinction.
I do not think I ever saw a more impressive human figure and face
than those of Chief Joseph as he stood tall, erect, and impassive,
at a President's reception in the winter of 1903. He was attired
in all the brilliancy of his official costume; but not a muscle of
his strongly marked face betrayed the sentiments with which he must
have gazed on the shining uniforms passing before him.

[1] _Men and Measures of Half a Century_, by Hugh McCulloch.
New York: Chas. Scribner's Sons, 1889.

X

SCIENTIFIC ENGLAND

My first trip to Europe, mentioned in the last chapter, was made with
my wife, when the oldest transatlantic line was still the fashionable
one. The passenger on a Cunarder felt himself amply compensated for
poor attendance, coarse food, and bad coffee by learning from the
officers on the promenade deck how far the ships of their line were
superior to all others in strength of hull, ability of captain, and
discipline of crew. Things have changed on both sides since then.
Although the Cunard line has completed its half century without
having lost a passenger, other lines are also carefully navigated,
and the Cunard passenger, so far as I know, fares as well as any
other. Captain McMickan was as perfect a type of the old-fashioned
captain of the best class as I ever saw. His face looked as if the
gentlest zephyr that had ever fanned it was an Atlantic hurricane,
and yet beamed with Hibernian good humor and friendliness. He read
prayers so well on Sunday that a passenger assured him he was born
to be a bishop. One day a ship of the North German Lloyd line was
seen in the offing slowly gaining on us. A passenger called the
captain's attention to the fact that we were being left behind.
"Oh, they're very lightly built, them German ships; built to carry
German dolls and such like cargo."

In London one of the first men we met was Thomas Hughes, of Rugby
fame, who made us feel how worthy he was of the love and esteem
bestowed upon him by Americans. He was able to make our visit
pleasant in more ways than one. Among the men I wanted to see was
Mr. John Stuart Mill,