most beautiful grouping of one of the most
picturesque places that I know, intensified by the charm of the changing
colours as the glow gradually faded, and the opalescent sea by slow
degrees took its place in the quiet harmonies of twilight.

[Illustration: ASCENT TO THE RAMPARTS, ZARA

_To face page 205_]

XVIII

ZARA

The continuation of the Canale della Morlacca, which washes the
mainland, is the Canale della Montagna, on the west side of which is the
island of Pago, the Gissa of the ancients. The city of the same name was
founded by the Venetians, and was originally a defensive military post
against the Uscocs. The bay upon which it is situated lies open to the
"Bora," and therefore cannot always be entered in winter. For this
reason Val Cassione, on the west side of the narrow island, is the usual
port. A road over a slight hill conducts to the south end of the bay and
the city, in front of which the water is so narrow that it is bridged
over. On the near side are the celebrated salt-works, the richest in
Dalmatia. There are a few Roman remains, including those of a camp; and
near Novaglia is a tunnel 300 yards long, lighted by pierced apertures,
said to have belonged to a Roman aqueduct. The scenery outside the
island of Pago is uninteresting; the islands have little elevation,
beauty of form or colour, nor is there sufficient vegetation to disguise
the dull grey of the rocks, though, as the boat turns to the west to
gain the mouth of the Canal of Zara, the Velebit Mountains behind may
become imposing under certain circumstances. The first time we went to
Zara the sun was setting at this part of the voyage, and the sky effect
was fine, while the Velebits flushed a pinkish purple with blue-purple
shadows, the silhouette only showing in places beneath heavy masses of
cloud, in which some of the summits were hidden. Falling showers here
and there softened and veiled the strong light and shade, relieved by
the prismatic hues of a rainbow. As the sun sank lower the mountains and
clouds gradually became a pallid grey, while the sky to westward passed
through many gradations of colour and tone as the clouds slowly
dispersed and night fell. Far away over the darkening water the electric
lights of Zara flashed and glittered, reflected in chains of sparkles
which grew longer as we approached.

The boat turned to the left into the old port, and thus we escaped the
ordeal of the dogana to which passengers land