g but a modest income, he yet saved money, with which he
helped the poorest of the French. His goodness of heart incited him
to sacrifice all his pleasures for charitable purposes.

[Illustration: MADAME VIGEE LEBRUN.]

This Prince's son, the Duke de Berri, often came to see me of a
morning. He sometimes appeared with small pictures under his arm,
which he had bought at a very low price. What proves how good a judge
of painting he was is that these pictures were splendid Wouvermans.
But it needed a very fine feeling to detect their merit under the
grime that covered them. The Duke de Berri also had a passion for
music.

I was at the play in London when the murder of the Duke d'Enghien was
announced. Hardly had the news spread through the theatre, when all
the women in the boxes turned their backs to the stage, and the piece
would not have gone on if somebody had not come in to state the report
a false one. We then all resumed our seats, and the play continued,
but as we went out it was, alas! all confirmed. We even learned some
particulars of this atrocious crime, which will always leave a
terrible blood-stain on Napoleon's career.

Next day we attended the funeral mass celebrated for the noble victim.
All of the French, our Princes included, and a large number of English
ladies were present. The Abbe de Bouvant gave a most touching
discourse on the lot of the unhappy Duke d'Enghien. The sermon ended
with an invocation to the Almighty to spare our dear Princes from a
like fate. Alas! the prayer was not heard, for we lived to see the
Duke de Berri fall by the dagger of a dastardly assassin.

CHAPTER XVII

PERSONS AND PLACES IN BRITAIN

ENGLISH PALACES -- AND SCENERY -- SUBURBAN PRINCES -- RICHMOND
TERRACE -- AN ECCENTRIC MARGRAVINE -- THE CHARM OF THE ISLE OF
WIGHT -- THE BRITONS A STOLID NATION -- THEIR INDIFFERENCE TO
RAIN.

Although the kind treatment I received induced me to stay three years
in London, whereas I had intended to pass but three months, the
climate of that town seemed very melancholy to me. It even disagreed
with my health, and I seized every opportunity to take a breath of
pure air in the lovely vales and dales of England, where I could at
least see some sunlight. I began, shortly after my arrival, by
spending a fortnight with Mme. Chinnery at Gillwell, where I found the
celebrated Viotti. The house was most luxurious, and I was given a
charming welcome. On reachi