a single family, enjoying perfect peace and happiness. Possibly
now, since a large number of regiments have been in the island, it is
no longer the same in respect to the quiet life, but it is a fact that
at the time of my visit all the population were well-dressed, civil
and benevolent. Besides the suavity I observed in the people, the
scenery was so entrancing that I should have liked to spend my life
in that beautiful spot. Only the Isle of Wight, and Ischia, near
Naples, have ever made me feel such a desire.

I also went to Lord Moira's country seat. Although I have forgotten
the name of his house, I remember how comfortable everything was and
what wonderful cleanliness prevailed all over. Lord Moira's sister,
Lady Charlotte, kind and courteous, did the honours with infinite
tact. It was, therefore, unfortunate that the place bored one. At
dinner the women left the table before dessert; the men remained to
drink and talk politics. I can truthfully state, however, that at no
gathering I attended did the men get drunk. This convinces me that, if
the custom ever existed in England, it has now ceased as far as good
society is concerned. I may also remark that I dined several times at
Lord Moira's with the Duke de Berri, and that the Duke never took
anything else than water, far from drinking too much wine, as has
since been alleged.

After dinner we met together in a large hall, where the women sat
apart, occupied with embroidery or tapestry-work, and not uttering a
sound. The men, on their side, took books to hand, and observed like
silence. One evening I asked Lord Moira's sister, since the moon was
shining brightly, whether we might not walk in the park. She replied
that the shutters were closed and that caution demanded they should
not be reopened, because the picture-gallery was on the ground floor.
As the library contained collections of prints, my only resource was
to seize upon these collections and go through them, abstaining, in
obedience to the general example, from a single word of speech. In the
midst of such a taciturn company, fancying myself alone one day, I
happened to make an exclamation on coming to a handsome print, which
astonished all the rest to the last degree. It is, nevertheless, a
fact that the total absence of conversation does not preclude the
possibility of pleasant chat in England. I know a number of English
who are extremely bright; I may even add that I never encountered one
who was s