act that most of the boats, of which there was an unceasing
procession up and down the river, gave me a continuous concert of
vocal music or wind instruments.

The artillery general, Melissimo, lived in a pretty house close to
mine, and I enjoyed having him for my neighbour, since he was the best
and most obliging of men. As the General had spent much time in
Turkey, his house was a model of Oriental comfort and luxury. There
was a bathroom lighted from above, in the middle of which was a basin
large enough to hold a dozen people. One went down into the water by
steps. Linen to be used for drying the body after bathing was hung on
a golden balustrade circling the basin, and consisted of large pieces
of Indian mull worked at the bottom in flowers and gold, so that the
weight of this embroidery caused the mull to adhere to the skin, which
appeared to me an elaborate refinement. Round the room ran a broad
divan on which one could stretch oneself and rest after taking a bath,
and one of the doors opened from a sweet little sitting-room. This
sitting-room, again, overlooked an odorous flower-bed, and some of the
stems grew to the height of the window. It was in this room that the
General gave us a breakfast of fruits, cream cheese and excellent
Mocha coffee, on all of which my daughter regaled herself royally.
Another time he asked us to a very good dinner, and had it served
under a Turkish tent brought back from one of his journeys. The tent
was put up on the lawn facing the house. There were twelve of us, all
seated by the table on splendid divans. We were served with delicious
fruits at dessert. The whole dinner was quite Asiatic, and the
General's courtesy added to the savour of all the good things. I wish,
however, that he had omitted firing off cannon shots in our immediate
proximity just as we were sitting down at table, but I was informed
that such was the custom with all generals. I took my little house on
the Neva for one summer only. The next, young Count Strogonoff lent me
one at Kaminstroff, where I was very well suited. Every morning I
walked alone in a neighbouring wood and passed my evenings with
Countess Golovin, my neighbour. There I met young Prince Bariatinski,
Princess Tarent, and various other congenial people. We would chat or
have readings until supper time. In fact time was speeding by for me
in the most agreeable manner.

The Russian people lived very happily under the rule of Catherine; by
great