she had taken counsel, "tells me
that if we are just going for the summer it's foolish to take anything
but absolute necessaries. He says we can buy so many nice little things
to wear over there if we need them, and then I can bring them back duty
free in the fall."
Eugene approved of this. He thought Angela would like to see the shops.
They finally decided to go via London, returning direct from Havre, and
on the tenth of May they departed, arriving in London a week later and
in Paris on the first of June. Eugene was greatly impressed with London.
He had arrived in time to miss the British damp and cold and to see
London through a golden haze which was entrancing. Angela objected to
the shops, which she described as "punk," and to the condition of the
lower classes, who were so poor and wretchedly dressed. She and Eugene
discussed the interesting fact that all Englishmen looked exactly alike,
dressed, walked, and wore their hats and carried their canes exactly
alike. Eugene was impressed with the apparent "go" of the men--their
smartness and dapperness. The women he objected to in the main as being
dowdy and homely and awkward.
But when he reached Paris, what a difference! In London, because of the
lack of sufficient means (he did not feel that as yet he had sufficient
to permit him to indulge in the more expensive comforts and pleasures of
the city) and for the want of someone to provide him with proper social
introductions, he was compelled to content himself with that
superficial, exterior aspect of things which only the casual traveler
sees--the winding streets, the crush of traffic, London Tower, Windsor
Castle, the Inns of court, the Strand, Piccadilly, St. Paul's and, of
course, the National Gallery and the British Museum. South Kensington
and all those various endowed palaces where objects of art are displayed
pleased him greatly. In the main he was struck with the conservatism of
London, its atmosphere of Empire, its soldiery and the like, though he
considered it drab, dull, less strident than New York, and really less
picturesque. When he came to Paris, however, all this was changed. Paris
is of itself a holiday city--one whose dress is always gay, inviting,
fresh, like one who sets forth to spend a day in the country. As Eugene
stepped onto the dock at Calais and later as he journeyed across and
into the city, he could feel the vast difference between France and
England. The one country seemed young, hope
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