ike gigantic wildernesses of upheaved
pudding stone. Then, as the voyage progresses, the hillsides put on
greenery, sombre when it is pine, cheerful when the hangings are
supplied by the silver birch, and bright ever when the emerald patches
bear testimony to the industry of the farmer, winning his scanty
harvests against heavy odds. The calling places are numerous, but
often consist of some half a dozen houses of the usual weatherboard,
red and white pattern.

The hour is nevertheless welcome when you espy the sun-browned face of
a brother angler, surmounted by a cap in which the flies cast upon the
pools during the day are regaining a dry plumage, turned towards the
vessel bearing you to the homely wharfage of the fiord station which
for the time being is your destination. The rod box is no unfamiliar
item of luggage in this country, and it is borne ashore by men who
understand what it is, and who like to handle it. Norwegians have a
deep respect for the English gentleman who fishes their salmon rivers,
and when he has arrived at the same place many years in succession he
is most heartily welcomed by natives of both sexes, who while he
remains will devote themselves to his interests, in their own
way--which has to be understood, no doubt, but which is on the whole of
a character that makes the respect mutual. After five days' travel by
land, sea, and fiord, the Norwegian hotel seems a veritable home, and
you are quite ready to be predisposed in favour of bed and board. It
is not true that first impressions are lasting, but they certainly go a
long way; and that first _tete-a-tete_ dinner with your host must needs
be a merry one. He probably is not so full of fishing as you are,
however keen he may be, for his rods have been for weeks on the pegs
under the little roof built for them on the side of the house. Any
wayfarer might take them, but they are safe enough, with reels and
lines attached, in this country, where the honesty of the people is
proverbial.

Conversation now, and at breakfast in the morning, reveals a temporary
check in sport. About a week since there was a big storm, during which
the thunder rolled amongst the mountains, and the lightning flashed
upon the face of the fiords. Then followed three days of warm winds,
and these did what heavy rains do at home. The river coming down in
rolling flood through the melting of the glacier at the head of the
valley, the migratory fish had seized the