ng that eternal womanliness, that tender care for those beloved,
that quality inseparable from woman if worthy the name, and by reason of
which with man, her mate, she has run the gamut of human experience,
meeting the demands of her time. There is no dodging the issue, woman's
story recorded in art, shows that she has always responded to Fate's
call; followed, led, ruled, been ruled, amused, instructed, sent her men
into battle as Spartan mothers did to return with honour or on their
shields, and when Fate so decreed, led them to battle, like Joan of Arc.

II. EGYPT AND ASSYRIA

In Egypt and Assyria the lines of the torso were kept straight, with no
contracting of body at waist line. Woman was clad in a straight
sheet-like garment, extending from waist to feet with only metal
ornaments above; necklace, bracelets and armlets; or a straight dress
from neck to meet the heavy anklets. Sandals were worn on the feet. The
head was encased in an abnormally curled wig, with pendent ringlets, and
the whole clasped by a massive head-dress, following the contour of head
and having as part of it, a curtain or veil, reaching down behind,
across shoulders and approaching waist line. The Sphinx wears a
characteristic Egyptian head-dress.

PLATE XIX

Mrs. Conde Nast, artist and patron of the arts, noted for
her understanding of her own type and the successful
costuming of it.

Mrs. Nast was Miss Clarisse Coudert. Her French blood
accounts, in part, for her innate feeling for line and
colour. It is largely due to the keen interest and active
services of Mrs. Nast that _Vogue_ and _Vanity Fair_ have
become the popular mirrors and prophetic crystal balls of
fashion for the American woman.

Mrs. Nast is here shown in street costume. The photograph is
by Baron de Meyer, who has made a distinguished art of
photography.

We are here shown the value of a carefully considered
outline which is sharply registered on the background by
posing figure against the light, a method for suppressing
all details not effecting the outline.

[Illustration: _Photograph by Baron de Meyer_
_Mrs. Conde Nast in Street Dress_]

III. EGYPT, BYZANTIUM, GREECE AND ROME

During the periods antedating Christ, when the Roman empire was
all-powerful, the women of Egypt, Byzantium, Greece and Rome, wore
gilded wigs (see Plate I, Frontispiece), arranged in Psyche knots, and
ban